Sunday, August 24, 2008 Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero

El Burgo Ranero, Municipal Albergue

Walked another half day today due to Jim’s stomach, but he is getting better and we hope to do all of Stage 19 (from the John Brierly Pilgrim’s Guide book) tomorrow to Mansilla de las Mulas.  It will be an easy day, only about 20k and the next day into Leon as well.  The albergue here is pleasant, a restored adobe structure with a fascinating open ceiling, revealing the rafters and supports. It’s got a small kitchen, too, which we used for fixing dinner.

Albergue in El Burgo Raneiro

The hospitalero is a German fellow who is volunteering for 16 days and who did the Camino last year.  He told me that the Camino association (whatever it is called) only allows volunteers to work for a limited time and 16 days is about max.  He didn’t say why volunteers can only work for so long and I didn’t ask.  I suppose it has to do with not allowing any one hospitalero to “move in” and not want to move on, depriving others of the joy of volunteering.

There is a tienda just down the road from which we got some food for supper and breakfast tomorrow.  This regular, daily shopping for food with the occasional restaurant meal is another of the things that separate the Camino from the AT.   We don’t have to carry so much food since there is almost always one around — if you can figure out the crazy Spanish working hours.   Meals are often bread, cheese, sometimes sausage, an orange or banana, and almost always some prepackaged, Twinkie-like pastry (which they sell by weight).   I’ve only been walking for what, almost a week, and already I’m tired of the food here.  There isn’t much variety, not on the Camino.

Older couple separating wheat from chaff on the lot next to the albergue.

Nearly all the walk from Sahagun today — or I should say, the alternative route from Calzada de Coto — was lined with sycamore trees.  Many of the trees were still young, but what shade they provided was welcome.  This intentional planting of trees along the camino out here in the meseta is a thoughtful idea. The temperature today was about 85 f but it felt hotter than that. This treeless, often breezeless meseta is a parched and weary land. Thanks for the trees.

I need to tell Abby and Guy that the trekking poles I am borrowing from them have been a great help.  Also I need to tell Pam that her E.B. hat I am wearing is perfect for this walk.  And tell Liz about the paella last night and the coke and wine drink.